DIY Brake Rotor & Pad Replacement — 2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 4MATIC Replacing brake pads and rotors on the GLK350 is a very manageable driveway job if you follow proper procedure and torque specifications. The key is cleanliness, correct reassembly, and proper bedding-in afterward. Vehicle Overview Model: 2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 4MATIC (X204) Front brakes: Ventilated discs Rear brakes: Solid/ventilated discs (depending on option) Brake system: Single-piston floating caliper (OEM setup) OEM Part Details Front Brakes Front pads: A005 420 49 20 (or equivalent) Front rotors: 345 mm ventilated discs OEM: A204 421 18 12 (varies by build option) Rear Brakes Rear pads: A005 420 28 20 (or equivalent) Rear rotors: 320 mm (approx.) OEM: A204 423 10 12 (varies by build option) Required Tools Jack + jack stands (or lift) Lug wrench (17mm) Torque wrench C-clamp or caliper piston tool Socket set (13mm / 18mm common caliper bolts) Brake cleaner Wire brush High-temp brake grease Bungee c...

  DIY Oil Change — 2013 Audi TT Quattro (2.0 TFSI EA888.2) Performing your own oil change on the 2013 Audi TT Quattro is one of the most important maintenance tasks for keeping the EA888 engine healthy, responsive, and free of sludge-related issues. This engine rewards clean oil and consistent service intervals. Vehicle Overview Model: 2013 Audi TT Quattro (Mk2) Engine: 2.0 TFSI EA888.2 Drivetrain: Quattro AWD Oil capacity (with filter): ~4.6–4.7 L Oil specification: VW 502.00 approved full synthetic Recommended viscosity: 5W-40 (preferred) or 0W-40 Required Parts Engine oil filter cartridge OEM: 06J 115 403 Q (common EA888 filter) Oil filter housing O-ring kit (usually included with filter) Drain plug crush washer OEM: N 013 815 7 Engine oil (VW 502.00 approved) Required Tools 19mm socket (oil drain plug) 32mm socket (oil filter housing cap) Torque wrench Oil catch pan (at least 6L capacity) Funnel Jack + stands or ramps Gloves + rags Torque Specifications (CRITICAL) Oil dr...

DIY Oil Change — 2014 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 4MATIC (X204) Performing your own oil change on the GLK350 is one of the most important and cost-effective maintenance tasks you can do. The 3.5L M276 V6 is robust, but it is sensitive to oil quality and service intervals. Vehicle Info Model: 2014 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 4MATIC Engine: 3.5L V6 (M276 DE35) Oil capacity (with filter): ~6.5–7.0 L Oil spec: MB 229.5 or MB 229.51 approved full synthetic Recommended viscosity: 0W-40 or 5W-40 Required Parts Engine oil filter cartridge OEM: Mercedes A2761800009 (or equivalent) Oil filter housing O-rings (usually included with filter kit) Drain plug crush washer OEM: A007603012102 (or equivalent) Engine oil (6.5–7.0L total) Tools Required 13mm socket (undertray bolts) 27mm socket (oil filter housing cap) 8mm hex or Torx (undertray depending on version) Torque wrench Oil catch pan (7–10L capacity) Funnel Gloves + shop towels Torque Specifications (IMPORTANT) Oil drain plug: 30 Nm (22 lb-ft) Oil filt...

DIY Oil Change — 2024 Kawasaki Z900RS Cafe Racer Performing your own oil change on the Kawasaki Z900RS Cafe is one of the simplest and most effective ways to maintain engine performance, responsiveness, and long-term reliability. The key is clean workmanship, correct torque values, and using the proper oil specification. What You’ll Need Before starting, make sure you have everything ready: Engine oil: 10W-40 full synthetic (JASO MA or MA2 certified) Oil filter (OEM or high-quality equivalent) OEM Part Number: Kawasaki 16097-0008 (common Z900RS filter) Drain plug crush washer OEM Part: Kawasaki 11061-0027 Socket / wrench set Torque wrench Oil catch pan Funnel Gloves and clean shop rags Step 1 — Warm Up the Engine Let the engine idle for 3–5 minutes. Warm oil flows more efficiently and carries suspended contaminants out of the engine more effectively. Step 2 — Position the Bike Place the motorcycle on a level surface. If available, use a rear stand to keep the bike upright and stable. ...

Is It Necessary to Upgrade Your Brakes? I believe upgrading your brakes is a must and should be one of the first modifications you make when increasing the power level of your vehicle. How Do Brakes Work? – Braking System 101 Hydraulic Action Your brake pedal is mechanically connected—usually through a metal rod—to a device called the master cylinder. The master cylinder is a sealed chamber filled with brake fluid, a specialized hydraulic fluid. Brake lines connect the master cylinder to your vehicle's brake calipers, allowing the fluid to travel throughout the braking system. When you press the brake pedal, the metal rod attached to it pushes a piston inside the master cylinder. This piston compresses the brake fluid, building pressure within the braking system. That pressure is transmitted through the brake lines and provides the force needed to operate the vehicle's brakes. More pedal force creates more hydraulic pressure, which translates into greater stopping power. When y...

The ONEPort is an OBD-II to USB device that allows the end user to extract critical ECU ID information, which can then be emailed to HPA for analysis and modification. Once a specific tune file is completed at HPA’s offices, the updated file is emailed back to the customer for upload into the vehicle. This process can take 1 to 2 business days, and in some cases longer depending on your file version. Please contact us once you’ve made your purchase. This is not a generic tune; it is specific to your vehicle and its ECU. Each ONEPort device can only be paired to an individual VIN number and is therefore owned by the user once purchased (it is not a loaner tool). However, the ONEPort can also be used for DSG / S-tronic programming in the same vehicle, if applicable.

Here’s your edited version with improved grammar, punctuation, readability, and flow while preserving your tone and technical intent: The big reveal for Spring 2021. A conservative approach to tuning my vehicles’ specific #ECU and #TCU sparked my interest a few years ago when I purchased my #AudiTT. I looked at other #software from various sources and, admittedly, almost pulled the trigger on more than one occasion. HOWEVER, I was sold on the #hpamotorsports software once I found out that it would adapt to the introduction of a water-methanol injection (WMI) kit and the upgrade of my intake manifold without any issues. A lot of other cloud-based software cannot adapt to a WMI kit or an upgraded intake manifold. However, with 30 years of experience, HPA’s software has everything I need to make a massive amount of power safely for daily driving. I’ll admit that I don’t care about having the highest number on a dyno sheet. I’d much rather have a car that can run 12s in the #1320 one weeke...

The OEM+ ULTRA BRAKE UPGRADE is finally complete. The two-piece semi-floating rotors have been purchased and will be delivered within 10 days. This kit weighs less than the #TTRS brake setup. It features a superior, lighter aluminum 4-piston caliper and true two-piece semi-floating rotors that cool just as effectively as OEM while being significantly lighter. The best part is that the size allows you to run 17-inch race wheels, saving you well over a hundred pounds of unsprung weight, all while costing $4,000 less than the TTRS brake setup. Why go big when you can go ULTRA? #TT #TTS #TTRS #Audi #AudiSport #AudiA3 #AudiTT

CR4 4-Piston Caliper Product Specifications: Caliper Size: 225mm L x 140mm W x 80mm H Caliper Body Construction: 2 halves Caliper Body Material: 6061-T6 forged Piston Sizes: Ø 38mm x 4 Piston Material: 6061-T6 billet Piston Style: Regular Piston Finish: Type III hard anodized Weight per caliper: ± 2250g (without pads) Dust Boot: Interior Oil Line: Exterior Min. to max disc size: Ø 280mm (11") to Ø 340mm (13.4") diameter Min. to max disc thickness: 22mm to 30mm Brake pad sizes: CR4-50D = 110mm L x 69.5mm H x 50mm D CR4-55D = 120mm L x 71.5mm H x 55mm D Caliper finish: Anodized Available colors: Anodized Red, Sapphire Blue, Energy Green (powder coated), Deep Gunmetal The ProdigyWerks CR4 4-Piston Caliper is designed as a high-performance upgrade and replacement for factory sliding calipers without requiring a full-scale brake conversion. This caliper is engineered to work with existing factory rotors/discs, meaning you do not need to replace your current OEM rotors....

What is the point of going fast if you cannot stop? Up until now, brake upgrades for our VAG cars have largely been limited to pads and rotors costing a few hundred dollars, or full big brake kits costing several thousand. The ability to upgrade the stock system with a performance caliper paired with OEM rotors has always been limited—but not anymore. I’ve partnered with a performance specialist called ProdigyWerks. They produce serious big brake kits, as well as a performance upgrade for the stock setup. That’s right: a 4-piston caliper designed to work with existing OEM rotors, paired with stainless steel brake lines. I couldn’t pass this opportunity up. I’ll be doing an in-depth review, including weight, dimensions, and video clips. This will all be showcased on my new platform, which is currently under construction. With so many great color options available, I’ve decided to go with matte black with red lettering to mirror the interior of the car. I’ll be dropping a promo code for ...

ONLY 17 lbs at 17x9  An upcoming in-depth review of the new summer rims and tires will include weights, video, and full specifications. This will be debuting on a brand-new platform that is currently under construction. Today, I purchased the Advanti Racing Storm S1 wheels for my OEM+ project. These wheels are extremely lightweight for a 17x9 ET35 setup. They feature a classic 10-spoke racing design in a hyper silver finish with genuine motorsport pedigree. Advanti Racing has previously partnered with Mercedes-Benz motorsport programs, as well as Red Bull-owned Scuderia Toro Rosso (now Scuderia AlphaTauri). Advanti Racing wheels are flow-formed, much like their sister brands Enkei, OZ Racing, and Konig (all under YHI). The wheels will be paired with a strong all-around ultra-high-performance summer tire: the NITTO 555, sized 255/45/17. The OEM specification for the S-Line Audi TT Quattro came with 19x9 ET52 silver 5-spoke wheels weighing approximately 35–40 lbs each. The tires orig...

I went from having to empty the contents of my CTS Turbo oil catch can biweekly to only needing to empty the RacingLine oil catch can monthly. Since it’s winter in Canada, temperatures can swing from +5°C to -15°C in the same day. With these constant temperature changes, it’s safe to say that not everything collected in the catch can is oil blow-by. Because of this, I needed a catch can with a larger containment capacity. The RacingLine unit provides exactly that, along with a high-flow baffle system that continues to function effectively even when it is up to 3/4 full. As you can see, the car hasn’t been significantly modified since my last update, but the OEM+ upgrades have been very rewarding. An OEM+ brake upgrade is in the works, along with a new wheel and tire setup. Stay tuned.  

A bigger catch can means less frequent drainage. The race-inspired baffled system, combined with a built-in surge tank design, allows for spirited driving without the can filling up too quickly. Is the CTS catch can worthwhile? Absolutely. For normal daily driving and relatively stock to Stage 1 cars, I can honestly recommend it. In my case, I’m constantly working on improving my Audi TT Quattro in order to surpass tuned TTS power, which is why I post pictures and videos of my upgrades as they happen. Best.

 turbo.  Months of pampering had finally come to their climax—the break-in period had been reached, and the TT was finally ready for its tune-up. However, this was not going to be your usual filter-and-plugs ordeal, not in the slightest. I had spent weeks, if not months, researching the known weak points of the EA888.2 engine and made it my mission to ensure they were addressed. The first was the consistently problematic positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) plate integrated into the aluminum valve cover. This emissions system is designed to route gases that enter the crankcase back into the intake stream to be reburned in the combustion chamber. However, it is prone to failure, often without warning, allowing oil to enter...