Skip to main content

DIY Brake Rotor & Pad Replacement — 2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 4MATIC





DIY Brake Rotor & Pad Replacement — 2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 4MATIC

Replacing brake pads and rotors on the GLK350 is a very manageable driveway job if you follow proper procedure and torque specifications. The key is cleanliness, correct reassembly, and proper bedding-in afterward.


Vehicle Overview

  • Model: 2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 4MATIC (X204)

  • Front brakes: Ventilated discs

  • Rear brakes: Solid/ventilated discs (depending on option)

  • Brake system: Single-piston floating caliper (OEM setup)


OEM Part Details

Front Brakes

  • Front pads: A005 420 49 20 (or equivalent)

  • Front rotors: 345 mm ventilated discs

    • OEM: A204 421 18 12 (varies by build option)

Rear Brakes

  • Rear pads: A005 420 28 20 (or equivalent)

  • Rear rotors: 320 mm (approx.)

    • OEM: A204 423 10 12 (varies by build option)


Required Tools

  • Jack + jack stands (or lift)

  • Lug wrench (17mm)

  • Torque wrench

  • C-clamp or caliper piston tool

  • Socket set (13mm / 18mm common caliper bolts)

  • Brake cleaner

  • Wire brush

  • High-temp brake grease

  • Bungee cord or hook (for caliper support)


Torque Specifications (IMPORTANT)

Wheels

  • Wheel bolts: 130 Nm (96 lb-ft)

Front Brakes

  • Caliper guide pins/bolts: 35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

  • Caliper carrier bracket bolts: 115 Nm (85 lb-ft)

  • Rotor retaining screw: 10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Rear Brakes

  • Caliper guide pins/bolts: 35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

  • Caliper carrier bracket bolts: 115 Nm (85 lb-ft)

  • Rotor retaining screw: 10 Nm (7 lb-ft)


Step 1 — Lift the Vehicle Safely

  • Loosen wheel bolts slightly before lifting

  • Raise vehicle securely on jack stands

  • Remove wheels


Step 2 — Remove Brake Caliper

  • Remove caliper guide bolts (usually 13mm or Torx)

  • Carefully slide caliper off rotor

  • Do NOT let caliper hang by brake hose

  • Support it with a bungee or hook


Step 3 — Remove Caliper Carrier & Rotor

  • Remove carrier bracket bolts (typically 18mm)

  • Remove rotor retaining screw

  • Slide rotor off hub

  • If stuck, tap lightly with rubber mallet


Step 4 — Install New Rotor

  • Clean hub surface with wire brush

  • Apply light anti-seize (hub only, not rotor surface)

  • Install new rotor

  • Secure rotor retaining screw

Torque rotor screw: 10 Nm (7 lb-ft)


Step 5 — Install New Brake Pads

  • Compress caliper piston fully using tool or clamp

  • Apply brake grease to pad contact points (NOT friction surface)

  • Install pads into carrier


Step 6 — Reinstall Caliper & Carrier

  • Reinstall carrier bracket bolts

  • Torque to specification

  • Slide caliper over new pads

  • Tighten guide pins


Final Torque Values

  • Carrier bracket bolts: 115 Nm (85 lb-ft)

  • Guide pins: 35 Nm (26 lb-ft)


Step 7 — Reinstall Wheels

  • Install wheels by hand first

  • Lower vehicle slightly to seat wheels

  • Torque in star pattern

Wheel bolts: 130 Nm (96 lb-ft)


Step 8 — Brake Pedal Reset

  • Pump brake pedal until firm

  • This seats pistons against new pads

  • Check brake fluid level


Step 9 — Bedding-In Procedure

To properly bed new pads and rotors:

  1. 8–10 moderate stops from 60 → 20 km/h

  2. Do NOT come to a complete stop while brakes are hot

  3. Allow cooling between runs

  4. Avoid heavy braking for first 200 km


Final Notes

The GLK350 braking system is simple but effective when maintained properly. Fresh rotors and pads will restore:

  • Strong pedal feel

  • Shorter stopping distances

  • Reduced vibration and noise

  • Consistent braking under load


If you want next, I can:

  • Turn this into a full HTML blog post like your performance builds

  • Add a big brake upgrade comparison (OEM vs AMG vs aftermarket)

  • Or build a YouTube step-by-step script with camera angles + narration

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Oil catch can system UPGRADE.

A bigger catch can means less frequent drainage. The race-inspired baffled system, combined with a built-in surge tank design, allows for spirited driving without the can filling up too quickly. Is the CTS catch can worthwhile? Absolutely. For normal daily driving and relatively stock to Stage 1 cars, I can honestly recommend it. In my case, I’m constantly working on improving my Audi TT Quattro in order to surpass tuned TTS power, which is why I post pictures and videos of my upgrades as they happen. Best.

After the rebuild came the OEM+ tune up.

 turbo.  Months of pampering had finally come to their climax—the break-in period had been reached, and the TT was finally ready for its tune-up. However, this was not going to be your usual filter-and-plugs ordeal, not in the slightest. I had spent weeks, if not months, researching the known weak points of the EA888.2 engine and made it my mission to ensure they were addressed. The first was the consistently problematic positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) plate integrated into the aluminum valve cover. This emissions system is designed to route gases that enter the crankcase back into the intake stream to be reburned in the combustion chamber. However, it is prone to failure, often without warning, allowing oil to enter...

Racingline Oil catch can dump (1 winter month)

I went from having to empty the contents of my CTS Turbo oil catch can biweekly to only needing to empty the RacingLine oil catch can monthly. Since it’s winter in Canada, temperatures can swing from +5°C to -15°C in the same day. With these constant temperature changes, it’s safe to say that not everything collected in the catch can is oil blow-by. Because of this, I needed a catch can with a larger containment capacity. The RacingLine unit provides exactly that, along with a high-flow baffle system that continues to function effectively even when it is up to 3/4 full. As you can see, the car hasn’t been significantly modified since my last update, but the OEM+ upgrades have been very rewarding. An OEM+ brake upgrade is in the works, along with a new wheel and tire setup. Stay tuned.